Since joining Wichita State University (WSU) in 2018, Melissa Penkava Koza has played an integral role in the School of Performing Arts (SPA), blending her expertise in costume technology with a deep passion for education. Recently promoted to Assistant Teaching Professor, Penkava Koza continues to shape the next generation of theatre professionals while maintaining strong ties to the broader arts community, including her work with Music Theatre Wichita (MTW).
A Journey from Music to Costume Technology
Penkava Koza’s career path has been multifaceted. She began her undergraduate studies at Bowling Green State University, initially pursuing music education before transitioning to opera performance. However, her involvement in the Theatre Department’s costume shop uncovered an unexpected passion for costume technology.
“I discovered that my sewing hobby could be turned into a career,” Penkava Koza reflected. “After adding a theatre minor, I pursued an M.F.A. in Theatrical Design and Production with a Costume and Lighting focus from the University of Memphis.”
Her transition into costume technology has provided her with a fulfilling career, where she combines technical expertise with artistic expression.
“I have a strong passion for STEAM (science, technology, engineering, arts, and mathematics) education, and I love showing students how three-dimensional geometry and chemistry—subjects they ‘thought they’d never use’—are essential to costume drafting and fiber modification,” Penkava Koza explained.
Teaching, Mentoring, and Expanding Applied Learning
As Costume Shop Manager, Penkava Koza oversees the entire costume production process for SPA performances, which includes:
- Drafting and draping patterns
- Supervising the construction of costumes
- Managing an inventory of approximately 15,000 garments, shoes, and accessories
- Ensuring that each performer is fitted in a well-constructed and performance-ready costume
Beyond the technical responsibilities, Penkava Koza values the transformative experience of costume fittings, highlighting their impact on both performers and student designers.
“Bringing a performer into a fitting isn’t just about making sure they feel comfortable in their costume,” Penkava Koza stated. “It allows student designers to see their concepts materialize and to share their creative vision with the performer. A costume fitting can be a deeply personal experience, providing a safe space to explore the role and prepare for a future career.”
With her recent promotion to Assistant Teaching Professor, Penkava Koza aims to further formalize applied learning opportunities, ensuring that WSU students gain hands-on industry experience throughout their coursework.
Bridging Academia and Professional Theatre Through MTW
In addition to her work at WSU, Penkava Koza plays a crucial role at Music Theatre Wichita (MTW), where she serves as Head of Costumes during the summer season. Her involvement with MTW began in 2019, when she was recruited to assist in the costume production for An American in Paris.
Since then, she has taken on major roles, including costume design for Mirette and costume coordination for Gypsy. One particularly memorable moment came during a 2022 performance of 42nd Street, when an unexpected COVID-19 case required her to step into a wardrobe role mid-show.
“I ran to the stage, grabbed the crew member’s paperwork, and took over their entire wardrobe track,” Penkava Koza recalled. “Prior to that day, it had been at least a decade since I had run a professional wardrobe track—and it’s an incredibly physical task. I think I took about 20,000 steps that day!”
Penkava Koza’s involvement with MTW benefits WSU students as well, as it keeps her connected to industry trends, professional networks, and evolving best practices.
“The professional theatre industry is at the forefront of social change,” Penkava Koza explained. “Maintaining an active connection allows me to bring that awareness and innovation back to our students.”
Strengthening the Wichita Arts Community
Penkava Koza is a strong advocate for collaboration between WSU, the College of Fine Arts (CFA), SPA, and the Wichita arts community. She actively encourages students to gain hands-on experience with local arts organizations, including: Roxy’s Downtown, ICT Repertory Theatre, Ballet Wichita, Harvester Arts and Envision Arts.
In Fall 2023, WSU piloted an internship program in collaboration with MTW, allowing students to work on costumes for the professional production of CATS. Penkava Koza hopes to see more of these partnerships fully integrated into WSU’s degree programs.
“We teach foundational skills on campus, but community involvement allows students to experience diverse methodologies and bring new ideas back to us,” Penkava Koza said.
Fostering Student Growth and Professionalism
For Penkava Koza, one of the most fulfilling aspects of her role is witnessing students develop professionalism, resilience, and confidence. She encourages students to embrace challenges—even failure—as an essential part of the learning process.
“As an educator, it may sound counterintuitive to encourage failure, but overcoming challenges is one of the best ways to learn,” Penkava Koza noted. “I remind students that the most-used tool in the shop is a seam ripper!”
Penkava Koza also strives to foster a culture of respect and inclusivity, ensuring that every student’s experience in the costume shop is safe, professional, and empowering.
Future Goals: Innovation and Industry Integration
Looking ahead, Penkava Koza hopes to integrate production work more fully into WSU’s curriculum, ensuring that students gain paid, industry-level experiences while completing their degrees. She is also focused on addressing the challenges of burnout and unpaid labor within the theatre industry.
“By teaching students to establish boundaries and recognize their worth, we can help combat the industry’s history of exploitation,” Penkava Koza explained.
WSU’s Spring 2024 productions include:
- Spring Awakening (February 20-23)
- Spring Dance Concert (April 24-27)
Meanwhile, MTW’s 2025 season will feature productions such as Waitress, Crazy for You, Disney’s Newsies, Something Rotten!, and A Grand Night for Singing.
A Final Word of Advice
Reflecting on her career, Penkava Koza credits her grandmother, Dorothy, for her tenacity and her favorite celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay for his structured leadership philosophy.
As for aspiring costume designers, her advice is clear:
“Ask questions, produce excellent work, be persistent, and practice kindness.”
With a commitment to education, innovation, and collaboration, Penkava Koza continues to make a lasting impact in costume technology, theatre production, and the Wichita arts community.
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